A jacket is the most transformative thing most of us own. When it fits, it straightens the shoulders, lengthens the body and quietly says you've made an effort. When it doesn't, no label or price can save it. The good news is that you can tell in the fitting room, in about a minute.
The five checks
The shoulders
The shoulder seam should end exactly where your shoulder does. Too wide and it slopes and dimples; too narrow and it pulls across the back. This is the one thing a tailor can't really fix, so it decides whether you buy.
The collar
The collar should sit flat against your shirt or neck, with no gap at the back when you stand naturally. A gap usually means the jacket is cut for a different posture.
The button
Fasten the top button (or the middle one on a three-button jacket). It should close without an X-shaped pull across the front, and without so much room that you could fit a fist inside.
The sleeves
Arms by your sides, the sleeve should end at the wrist bone. With a shirt, a centimetre of cuff should show. Sleeves are among the easiest things a tailor can shorten.
The length
Most jackets look best ending around the middle of your seat, covering it partly or fully. Shorter feels modern and suits a shorter frame; longer suits taller figures.
What a tailor can fix, and what they can't
- Easy and good value: sleeve length, taking the waist in a little, small adjustments to the length.
- Possible but costly: letting out the waist, adjusting a collar that stands away.
- Walk away: shoulders that are wrong, or a jacket that's too short in the body.
Buy for the shoulders, tailor the rest.Fit the shoulders first and let a tailor handle the waist and sleeves. A modest jacket altered well will look better than an expensive one bought off the peg and left as it is.
Not sure which cut suits your frame? Your Style Profile shows the lines that work for you, and our guide to fit covers trousers, shirts and more.
